Our factory in Östersund
Swedish production of warm wool base layers focused on the highest quality is the very foundation of Woolpower’s mission.
From Sheep to Yarn
Woolpower’s supply chain is primarily located in Sweden. It is unusual for a company to have such a large part of its production chain under the same roof, as we do. But, before the yarn arrives with us and we can start to manufacture products, the wool must be processed and spun into yarn.
As a responsible company, we must maintain control of our supply chain. The simplest way to do that is to keep the supply chain as short as possible. So, the more we do ourselves the easier it is to ensure good working conditions.
Our production: Step by Step
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Step 1: Knitting
The first step in our production process is knitting. In our knitting hall, our unique material, Ullfrotté Original, is knitted using specially designed machines.
Ullfrotté, a new knitting method that maximizes performance
Our unique knitting method, Ullfrotté, is developed to enhance the natural properties of wool and create the most functional garment possible. Precision is required in the machine settings to synchronize the knitting process for Ullfrotté Original. Wool is a living material, and producing perfect fabrics is no simple task. Issues can sometimes arise that must be handled by our technicians and machine operators. For example, a worn needle may create lines in the fabric, or fibers that are too long may protrude from the yarn and get caught. If this happens, the material is not approved and cannot be used in our products. However, since the material still retains its functionality, we sell it by the meter in our factory store so that creative individuals can make their own garments.
The right humidity for the right result
To ensure the yarn runs smoothly in the machines, a higher level of humidity is required. By introducing steam through the ceiling, we maintain a humidity level of 63–67%, which prevents static electricity during the knitting process. Our technicians and machine operators constantly monitor the production to identify and resolve any issues.
Fewer seams for increased durability
Seams are the weakest points in a fabric and the areas most likely to fail. That is why most of our garments are constructed from circular-knitted tubes, eliminating longitudinal seams. The cuffs for sleeves and legs are also knitted in one piece. Circular knitting also reduces material waste. With fewer seams, the garments are softer and the risk of chafing is minimized.
Sock production around the clock
In our knitting hall, there are also around 40 machines producing socks of various models, around the clock. Our sock machines can knit different patterns directly into the socks. To create a specific design, our technicians program how the needles should move and which yarns should be used in each section.
Step 2: Preparation
Washing, shaping and cutting
Many people find that wool garments shrink in the wash. We don’t want that to happen at home, which is why we wash all knitted material at 140°F in our factory instead, using only water and nothing else. This process causes the material to shrink by 20–22% and stabilize. It results in a softer, more flexible fabric that is easier to work with. After washing, we dry the fabric. Once the pieces are dry, we shape them using heat and steam on metal forms in our shaping machines.
Meet Clara and Calle
Our shaping machines are named Calle and Clara. Calle shapes all of our body fabric while Clara shapes around 600,000 pairs of legs and sleeves each year using different molds. Some of the molds still in use today date back to when we were called Vinetta and produced nylon stockings more than 50 years ago.
Once the material has been heated and shaped, it must rest for 24 hours before cutting out the pieces that will later be sewn into garments. We use as much fabric as possible from each tube. The tubes are layered, with the weight of the material determining how many layers can be stacked in the spreading machine. The length is adjusted depending on the size being produced, all to minimize waste. Each tube is then marked using garment templates. At this stage, the fabric is also inspected once again and any debris, lines, or other irregularities are marked. The prepared tubes are then moved on to the cutting table.
Cutting dies are like cookie cutters
To achieve clean, straight edges in a soft material like Ullfrotté Original, the entire tube must be cut in one go. To do this, we use cutting dies and a press. The dies vary in shape and size depending on what is being produced. They have a sharp, serrated edge that is placed against the material. The dies are arranged on the fabric like cookie cutters and then pressed through the layers. This process is repeated until the entire tube has been used and the pieces are ready to be sewn into garments.
Fabric waste becomes new products
Even though we optimize production to minimize waste, some leftover material is inevitable. This is compressed into a felt material. From this felt, we produce items such as seat pads. Making use of leftover material to create new, functional products is both smart and sustainable.
Step 3: Sewing
We have a total of sixteen sewing lines, and our sewists are divided into teams working on different products. Some sew jackets and vests, while others focus on accessories, long johns, or zip turtlenecks. No one here works on piece rates, and quality always comes before quantity. If a sewist discovers an issue in the process, production is stopped to resolve it.
A different model from the traditional factory
In a traditional textile factory, each machine is operated by a sewist who repeatedly sews the same seam or detail before passing the garment onto the next person, who adds another seam. This often results in a very monotonous and stressful working environment.
At Woolpower, we turn this model upside down.
The same sewist sews the entire garment
The sewist moves between machines and, with the support of the quality standards we have established in the factory, acts as her own quality inspector. Moving between machines also creates a better working environment, as it introduces more natural variation in the work.
This means that one sewist sews the entire garment, from the first stitch to the last.
A name that stands for quality
Once the garment is completed, it is inspected, and if the sewist approves it, she signs it with her own name. Our labels are therefore both a mark of quality and a way for our customers to understand that there is a real person behind each product, someone with deep knowledge of their craft.
Nothing goes to waste unnecessarily
If a defect is discovered, the sewist simply removes her name label, and the garment is sold as a second-quality item in our factory store in Sweden at a reduced price, all to avoid unnecessary waste of materials.
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Step 4: Packing and Warehouse
Once the sewist has inspected and approved the garments, they move on to be packed. All our products are shipped in cardboard packaging, which is folded on-site and labeled with the correct information.
The final step in our production chain is our warehouse. This is where all our products are stored before being shipped to our customers around the world.